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1 Eiderdown Cloth
A light woollen cloth woven loose and finished with a long nap on both sides for women's and children's wear. Designed to take the place of the knitted style, which is known by the same name. The warp is harder spun than the thick soft spun weft. -
2 Petersham Cloth
A heavy woollen overcoating cloth, generally indigo dyed, of simple construction and similar to Witneys, Elsyians and Sardinians, except that it differs in finish. A thick nap is raised on the face and this nap is rubbed by special means into small clusters. Woven 8-shaft twill, 60-in. wide, 54-in. finished, from 190 yard/oz. crossband woollen warp and 110 yard/oz. openband woollen weft. For the weave see naps. -
3 Pilot Cloth
A woollen goods term given to the indigo-blue dyed heavy overcoating cloth, used for seamen's coats, etc. Usually made with 4-shaft twill weave, 54-in. finished and dyed, principally dark blue, but brown, black and green are done. These cloths have a thick nap on the face. A typical cloth is made from 250 yard/oz. woollen crossband and 130 yard/oz. woollen crossband weft and weighs 36 oz. per yard. -
4 Ulster Cloth
Heavy woollen fabric for overcoating, made from wool warp and shoddy weft in America. Woven 32 ends and 48 picks per inch, weighing 35-oz. per yard for 75-in. cloth. Warp about 2 run, weft 13/4 run. Yarns are dyed solid colours, black, navy, brown, etc. Finished with a long nap which is laid straight. The cloth resembles a zibeline, but is not so lustrous. -
5 Cadet Cloth
A woollen coating fabric with a nap finish. Woven in five-shaft doeskin twill, three up two down, giving a warp face. Other twills are used, but this gives the best results. The colour is bluish grey, and the cloth is used for uniforms in military schools. -
6 Buffalo Cloth
An American term for heavy twilled woollen overcoating, with a long nap. -
7 κρόκη
κρόκη, ἡ, heterocl. acc.A , nom. pl.κρόκες AP6.335
(Antip.): nom. [full] κρόξ only in Hsch.: ([etym.] κρέκω):—thread which is passed between the threads of the warp, woof, Hes. l.c., Hdt.2.35, Pl. Plt. 282d, 282e, Cra. 388b;κ. καὶ στήμων PLille6.12
(iii B. C.);νῶσαι μαλθακωτάτην κ. Eup.319
, cf. Men.892;κρόκας ἐμβάλλειν Arist.HA 623a11
.2 generally, thread, Hp.Morb.2.18, Luc.Nav.26, etc.3 = κροκύς, flock or nap of woollen cloth, ἐν Ἐκβατάνοισι γίγνεται κρόκης χόλιξ; Ar.V. 1144: pl., μαλακαῖσι κρόκαις with cloths of soft wool, Pi.N. 10.44; κρόκαισι with flocks of wool, S.OC 474; τρίβωνες ἐκβαλόντες.. κρόκας having lost the nap, worn out, E.Fr.282.12; τῆς κ. φορουμένης the wool being torn to pieces, Ar.Lys. 896, cf. Th. 738; κρόκη θαψίνη yellow wool, IG12.330.17.II = κροκάλη, pebble on the sea-shore, Arist.Mech. 852b29; ἐν κρόκῃσι on the pebbles of the shore, Lyc.107, 193, etc. -
8 κροκύς
Aκρόκη 1.3
) flock or nap on woollen cloth, Hdt.3.8, Luc.Fug.28, etc.; piece of wool, Hp.Prog.4, Plu.Sull.35; κροκύδα ἀφαιρεῖν, typical of a flatterer, Thphr.Char.2.3: metaph.,ἀνήσω κροκύδα μαστιγουμένη Ar.Fr. 651
.2 κ. ἑδρική suppository, Herod. [voice] Med.in Rh.Mus.58.72, cf. Aët.3.161. -
9 Lewis, John
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]fl. c. 1815 England[br]English developer of a machine for shearing woollen cloth with rotary cutters.[br]To give a smooth surface to cloth such as the old English broadcloth, the nap was raised and then sheared off. Hand-operated shears of enormous size were used to cut the fibres that stuck up when the cloth was laid over a curved table top. Great skill was required to achieve a smooth finish. Various attempts, such as that in 1784 by James Harmer, a clergyman of Sheffield, were made to mechanize the process by placing several pairs of shears in a frame and operating them by cranks, but success was not achieved. Samuel G. Dow of Albany, New York, patented a rotary shearer in England in 1794, and there was Samuel Dore in the same year too. John Lewis never claimed that he invented the rotary cutter, and it is possible that he made have seen drawings or actual examples of these earlier machines. His claim in his patent of 1815 was that, for the first time, he brought together a number of desirable features in one machine for shearing cloth to achieve the first really successful example. The local story in the Stroudwater district in Gloucestershire is that Lewis obtained this idea from Budding, who as a lad worked for the Lewis family, clothiers at Brinscombe Mills; Budding invented a lawn mower with rotary barrel blades that works on the same principle, patenting it in 1830. In the shearing machine, the cloth was moved underneath the blades, which could be of the same width so that only one operation was needed for each side. Other inventors had similar ideas, and a Stroud engineer, Stephen Price, took out a patent a month after Lewis did. These machines spread quickly in the Gloucestershire textile industry, and by 1830 hand-shearing was extinct. John Lewis was the son of Joseph, who had inherited the Brinscombe Mills in 1790 but must have died before 1815, when his children mortgaged the property for £12,000. Joseph's three sons, George, William and John, worked the mill for a time, but in 1840 William was there alone.[br]Bibliography1815, British patent no. 3,945 (rotary shearing machine).Further ReadingJ. de L.Mann, 1971, The Cloth Industry in the West of England from 1660 to 1880, Oxford (the best account of the introduction of the shearing machines).J.Tann, 1967, Gloucestershire Woollen Mills, Newton Abbot (includes notes about the Brinscombe Mills).K.G.Ponting, 1971, The Woollen Industry of South-West England, Bath; and H.A.Randall, 1965–6, "Some mid-Gloucestershire engineers and inventors", Transactions of the Newcomen Society 38 (both mention Lewis's machine).RLH -
10 gausape
gausape abl. e, plur. a, n, γαυσάπησ, a rough woollen cloth: purpureum, H., O.* * *Icloth of woolen frieze (coarse wool cloth w/nap); cloak of this materialIIcloth of woolen frieze (coarse wool cloth w/nap); cloak of this material -
11 lana
f woolpura lana vergine pure new wool* * *lana s.f.1 wool: lana greggia, grezza, raw wool; lana comune, ordinary wool; lana ordinaria, broad wool; lana ruvida, harsh wool; lana scelta, matchings; un gomitolo di lana, a ball of wool; una matassa di lana, a skein of wool; bioccolo di lana, lock of wool; l'industria della lana, the wool industry; tingere la lana, to dye wool // di lana, woollen; wool (attr.): abito di lana, woollen dress; filo di lana, woollen yarn; stoffa, articoli di lana, woollen goods; tessuto di lana, woollen cloth; tessuto di lana pettinata, worsted fabric // (tess.): pura lana vergine, pure new wool; lana a fibra corta, short-stapled wool; lana a fibra lunga, long-stapled wool; lana contenente cascame, noily wool; lana corta, frib; lana da carda, carding (o clothing) wool; lana da concia, pulled wool; lana debole, tender wool; lana difettosa, defective wool; lana fragile, brittle wool; cardatura della lana, wool-carding; filatura della lana, wool-spinning; pettinatura della lana, wool-combing; tessitura della lana, wool-weaving // (ind.): lana d'acciaio, steel wool; lana di vetro, glass wool (o fibreglass) // (edil.): lana di legno, wood wool; lana di roccia, rock wool // (chim.) grasso di lana, woolfat (o wool grease)2 (bot.) (lanugine) nap, floss, egret3 (fig.) (di persona) è una buona lana quello!, he's an old rascal!* * *['lana]sostantivo femminile wool••essere una buona lana — to be a rascal o a scallywag
* * *lana/'lana/sostantivo f.\\lana d'acciaio steel wool; lana di vetro glass wool. -
12 Baize
A heavy woollen cloth made from coarse warp and weft, and felted; usually dyed green or red, has a harsh feel, is loosely woven, with a long nap on both sides, and used for coverings for tables, screens, etc., 66 to 68-in. is the general width. This term was used in 1605 to specify a woollen cloth; first made in Sandwich, Colchester and Norwich in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. At Sandwich, the Walloon strangers were workers in serges, baize and flannel, and the English weavers learnt the trade from them. -
13 Frieze
A heavy woollen fabric with a rough, irregular nap, and a more or less hard feel. Originally an Irish production; generally grey in colour, and used for the lower-grade clothing. Also made from a mixture of wool and shoddy or mungo. Woven 2 & 2 twill with about 40 ends and 60 picks per inch, 20's skein Yorkshire woollen warp and weft. The weave is sometimes the broken 2 & 2 twill. Frieze was first mentioned in 1399 as a coarse woollen cloth and made in Coventry. It was much used by the people in the 16th century for doublets, jerkins and gowns. -
14 Mustarde Villars
The term is said to be a corruption of Moitie Velours; and is also described as " a kind of mixed grey woollen cloth." Mustard colour cloth was much used in the 15th century for liveries and official dresses. The fabric had a slight nap. -
15 Amphimallum
The Greek and Roman word for woollen cloth, having a nap on both sides, and more or less rough. -
16 Amphitapus
The Greek and Roman word for a particular kind of woollen cloth made of some material resembling Vicuna wool and having a nap on both sides. It was probably of eastern origin. -
17 Calmuc
Loose woven, twilled woollen cloth, made of loose twist yarn, fulled and finished with a long nap; used as winter dress goods (see Kalmuk) -
18 Cordelat
A heavy, strong, woollen cloth in 2 & 2 twill weave, made at Avre and Languedec, Prance. It had a long nap on the surface and was used for dress purposes. -
19 Elysian
A heavy woollen cloth with nap finish. A special wave pattern is produced in the napping. Used for overcoats (see Naps) -
20 Grain De Poudre
French woollen cloth with very light nap, formerly used for dress wear.
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